"Think safety first, work alongside a qualified electrician if unsure."
Install guide: For every 100 -150 Litres tank size installed, you will need one flat-plate panel.
Length: 2206mm x Width: 1205mm x Height: 100mm. Weight per panel: 55 kg. Aperture Area: 0.995 m2 Efficiency: 95%. Fluid Capacity: 550m.
"When working with heights, electrics and plumbing, you should always use correct safety equipment. Use professional MCS installers if you're not sure."
Not all flat-plates are equal.
Slim line design and modern looking panels.
SPF tested and approved quality heating panels for the global market.
Installed in-roof or on-roof, including facade on a wall or a canopy over a patio, configurations and styles.
The special Low-E (low iron) glass prevents heat loss, unlike other lesser quality panel technology. Low E glass has less reflective properties, giving much increased absorbing properties.
The difference between the two types:
This type of installation sits above the roof covering on anchors or fixing points which secure underneath the slate/tile roof to the roof battens.
This type of installation sits directly onto the roof batons with the tiles/slates sit around the panel. A flashing kit is supplied to weatherproof the roof edges.
A guide to self-installing flat-plate panels
"Health and safety should always be the main priority when self-installing solar heating panels. Work alongside a roofer or plumber if help is required."
If installing to a sloping roof, it is essential to specify which type of roof you are installing too, before ordering your kit.
1. The need for scaffolding is essential to create a safe working platform at the gutter height. Additional roof ladders are recommended and preventing damage to your roof slates or tiles.
A professional tip, is to measure the roof space from the inside of the loft space to help you decide the panel's location, but bear in mind the route of your pipework which will take the anti-freeze down to the tank coil. The shorter the pipe distance, the better.
With correct the measurements in hand, you can work out the external location and remove the tiles/slates applicable to your type of installation, i.e. In-roof panels will require all the roof covering removed in your calculated area, or on-roof installs will only need to remove certain tiles to attach the' roof anchors' to the roof battens.
2. Attach the horizontal rails to the roof anchors and measure the diagonal corner distances to square up before tightening the final bolts.
Lifting up the panels needs to be done with care. We recommend using a roofer's pulley system for an easy lift. Position the panels onto the horizontal rail making sure the inlet and outlet ports are positioned correctly and measure diagonally again to check everything is still squared up.
Creating an entry hole for your pipework can be done either with an additional professional style 'aluminium tile' with a manufactured entry/exit hole or carefully drilling a hole through your existing tile/slate and sealing with a roofing-grade silicone.
Make ensure all exposed external pipework is insulated with 'Armoflex pipe insulation' and tied down with plastic cable ties.
3. There are two different options with your pipe run. Purchasing professional 'ready-insulated aluminium pipework' with the temperature sensor cable already installed will not only save time but give you peace of mind. A standard copper pipe run can be used, but we recommend using the 'compression' style of connecting your pipes together. Soldering/brazing is possible too.
The location of the 'pump station' can be either in the loft space, basement or within the bathroom airing cupboard. The hot water cylinder, however, take into consideration the 'expansion vessel' which will need to be located next to it.
4. Most solar heating installations also include upgrading the hot water tank to an unvented or pressurised system. This will require by law a 'G3' accredited plumber to install this type of cylinder, but more traditional vented or gravity feed systems can be installed with a solar-ready coil.
5. The final stage of your installation will be the 'solar controller' or management system. To install this in your bathroom area, you or someone with you will require a Part 'P' electrical qualification to add this extra spur. Most commonly though, controllers are usually installed in a hallway or with the pump station.
Routing the temperature sensors from your controller's location of the hot water tank and back up to the panels on the roof, can usually follow the existing pipework up towards your solar panels. Make sure the sensors are secured and giving correct readings.
Check and double-check all your pipe joints and electrical connections.
6. Now relax and make a cup of tea. You have now joined a growing army of homeowners who are taking advantage of the benefits of solar panels.
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All our MCS solar panel installers are RECC scheme (Renewable Energy Consumer Code) members and work throughout England, Scotland and Wales.