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Evacuated solar tube kits

"Evacuated solar tubes are a second-generation technology. These systems are manufactured to MCS accredited standards."

Evacuated solar tube kits.

MCS approved components and parts.

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Heat-pipes tube kits
DIY & trade.
Tank size: 200-350 Litres

1 x Evacuated tubes collector.
1 x Roof fitting kit.
1 x 25 Litre expansion vessel.
1 x Expansion installation kit.
1 x Controller & pump station.
1 x 20 Litres Glycol fluid.
Connectors.
Solar-ready tanks (optional).

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Evacuated solar tubes kits for DIY installers.



"Think safety first, work alongside a qualified electrician if unsure."

A-frames for ground-mounted systems available.


Install guide: For every 100-180 Litre tank size, you will need two m2 arrays or three m2 for 180-300 Litre.


"When working with heights, electrics and plumbing, you should always use correct safety equipment. Use professional MCS installers if you're not sure."


How these supersede traditional flat-plates?

This technology includes the patented Low E glass. These use a distinctive 'low iron' glass formula which has reduced the reflective properties and increases the absorption.

Because the glass surface is not flat. It has 360 deg absorption ability, which gives better performance than all other flat-plate technologies, giving a more even output throughout the day and a higher output at low outdoor temperatures can be achieved with this technology.

Each solar tube has twin-skin vacuum filled glazing for better heat retention. Just like a thermos flask, once the heat is in it becomes trapped.

A choice between direct-flow or heat-pipe collectors.

We supply two types of tube systems. Both are manufactured within Europe and both MCS and Solar Key Mark approved:


A guide to self-installing evacuated solar tubes

"Health and safety should always be your main priority when self-installing evacuated solar tubes. Work alongside a roofer or plumber if help is required."

If installing on a roof, it is essential to specify which type of roof covering, i.e. Slate or tile, before ordering your kit.

1. Scaffolding on a roof installation will be required up to the level of the guttering. This will give you a safe working platform. Additional roof ladders are recommended, to prevent damage to the roof covering. If your roof space is limited or you want to specify a position on the roof, then mapping the right measurements from the inside of the roof space/loft may be helpful.

Deciding where to locate the' pump station' and the shortest route for your pipework is recommended at this stage.

2. The 'roof anchors' are fixed into the underneath roof batons. You can remove a tile or slate to gain access and replace once you are happy with the fixture. Measuring diagonally from corner to corner will help you square up the anchors, ready for the aluminium mainframe to be fixed.

The best part of this installation is attaching the header and tubes to the mainframe. Some styles of evacuated tube collectors allow you to piece together the tubes individually or they can be delivered ready-assembled.

Please note, ready-assembled collectors will need to be hoisted up to the scaffolding using a roofers pulley system. Many self-installers work alongside a roofing company for this stage of the installation if working at heights is an issue.

An inlet and outlet hole for the pipes can be drilled through the tile/slate and resealed using roof-grade silicone, alternatively a professional style 'artificial slate' can be acquired with the sealed hole already in place. Make sure any exposed pipework is insulated by an 'Armoflex sheaf' up to the headers inlet and outlet ports.

3. Routing your pipework down towards the pump station can be done with either professional 'ready insulated' pipe lengths containing the temperature sensor wire or traditional copper pipe can be used. If the latter is your choice, then we recommend connecting using the modern 'compression' joints or soldering/brazing can be an alternative. Connect the pump station to the correct hot and cold feed connections.

The 'expansion vessel' is installed next to the pump station so, allow for this too. Common locations for this are in the loft space, basement or within the airing cupboard if space allows.

4. Some installations may require an upgraded hot water tank. Unvented or pressurised cylinders are common, but a 'G3 plumbers qualification' by law will be required to install this type of tank, however, a traditional vented-tank can be used with a secondary solar coil.

5. Now decide where to locate the 'controller' or management system. If you are installing it in the bathroom, then a 'Part P electrical qualification' is required to add an extra electrical spur. Outside the bathroom area is most common.

Attaching and routing the 'temperature sensors' from the controller and to the tank and header can follow the route of the pipework in most cases.

6. Filling the system up with the Glycol (anti-freeze) fluid can be done with a plumber's pump unit. Flushing the system out of all air bubbles is essential and a pressure of '3 bars' is standard. The final operation is setting up the management control box and testing the temperature sensors are giving accurate readings is a must.

Check all pipework and electrical connections are secure.

7. Make a cup of tea. You have now joined a growing army of people taking advantage of solar panels.


Get a tailored quote.

All our MCS solar panel installers are RECC scheme (Renewable Energy Consumer Code) members and work throughout England, Scotland and Wales.

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Author.

"Feel the pride."

Stuart Lovatt
Founder of Heat My Home.




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